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Polaris 280 Pressure Side Pool Cleaner by Zodiac

Polaris 280

My favorite Polaris Pool Cleaner!

The Polaris 280 pressure side pool cleaner is my all time favorite. This is my go to pool cleaner when I am replacing any other pressure side pool cleaner. I will explain why the Polaris 280 beats out even the higher priced Polaris cleaners in my book. I will also quickly explain what a “pressure side” cleaner means and if this cleaner will work for you.

Let’s start with why I love this cleaner so much.

First, the quality.

Most Polaris pool cleaners are made to last without much repair but the Polaris 280 is such a simple design with very few parts that wear out, or at least wear out quickly. To give you an idea, I have personally installed over 200 of the Polaris 280. I have continued to maintain those pools for years to come and am proud to say that I even had a couple of those cleaners live out their lives and I actually needed to replace them one more time (about 18 years later)! Most pool cleaners will last between 15-20 years but not without repairs.

The Polaris 280 will go at least the first 5 years with no repairs needed on average. The first repair you will most likely need to do is replace some of the tires, wheels, or a bearing or two. This will most likely cost you around $50 and should get you by for at least another 3-5 years. After that you may replace other wheels, tires, and bearings. You may also have to replace the backup valve at this point (only if it stops reversing and starts to get stuck a lot). The total cost on all of this could be $125.00. After that you should go another 3-5 years and you may need a few extra parts beyond just wheels and bearings. It may be a good idea at this point to do a tune-up-kit or a rebuild-kit which both come with many common parts and make your Polaris 280 almost like new. Actually, you can always continue rebuilding your Polaris 280 for as long as you like. The parts are not that expensive and the unit will continue to clean your pool. The main reason I choose to replace the entire polaris 280 and start over with a new Polaris 280 is because of the hose. After 15 or more years the hose becomes stiff and brittle. Things start to break on the hose and usually at that point the Polaris needs parts too. This is the perfect time to replace it all because the complete hose replacement is over $100.00 and doesn’t come with a backup valve. You would almost save money buying an new one and then everything is new again.

The most important thing is that Polaris doesn’t use cheap plastics and bad designs that constantly need repair or replacement. The Polaris 280 is a quality pool cleaner.

The second reason is how well the Polaris 280 works!

When I talk about how well the Polaris 280 works, I am comparing it in my mind to all the other pressure side pool cleaners that are out there that I have dealt with in swimming pools throughout the years. If you read the previous section about repairs and thought that those estimates seemed expensive and short lived, you should see other brands and their quality/price! Trust me, the Polaris 280 is better.

It is also better when it comes to the way it cleans the pool and how much debris fits in it’s bag every week. The Polaris 280 gets stuck less often and in less places throughout your pool. There may be an occasional step or swimout corner that it hangs up in from time to time but I promise that compared to most other cleaners, this is very minimal.

The unit also has a very large opening at the bottom for the leaves and dirt to enter. The opening is larger and better shaped than it’s competitors for better suction at the bottom of the pool. I have even seen Barbie Dolls sucked up and inside the bag of the cleaner! The back of the bag near the zipper collects all of the small debris like sand and silt from the bottom of your pool. The rest of the bag collects larger debris like leaves. The bag is easy to remove with a quick release from the unit and a clip on the hose. There is a zipper at the back of the bag for easy emptying. Everything snaps back on and you are done in less than a minute. Do this at least once per week to help the bag last as long as possible. The bag will need to be replaced when it develops holes in it which is usually every 2 years. Making sure you always snap the clip from the bag to the hose of the Polaris 280 will help extend it’s life. If you don’t do this the bag can fall down to the wheels and get torn up when the unit turns back on the next day.

There are less expensive replacement bags available that are not made by Polaris but I never buy them. I have found that the material is not as good and does not last as long or pick up the same size particles and the original. I have also seen the Polaris 280 floating around the pool because air was trapped inside an after market non name brand bag replacement rendering the Polaris 280 ineffective. Here is the link to the correct Polaris 280 bag replacement on Amazon (less expensive than most pool stores).

The last reason is the great price!

The price versus what you get is in my mind a no brainer. The Polaris 280 is under $475 complete and should last you 15-20 years with only a couple hundred dollars of repairs possible in that time.

The Polaris 380 pool cleaner is almost $700. In my experience, you will repair this cleaner more often at a higher price for each repair. I have seen people put an additional $100 – $150 every 3-5 years just to keep this cleaner working well.

The Polaris 3900 Sport is almost $800 complete before mail in rebate and could cost you around $300 in repairs over the same 15-20 years. Here is a link to the current rebates available from Polaris. This unit is probably better than the Polaris 380 but still doesn’t compare in my mind to the Polaris 280. The fancy look and metal drive belt are not enough for me to spend more on this unit. I have this cleaner is a few of my pools and I think the Polaris 280 gets stuck less often and cleans better anyway.


What does “Pressure Side Pool Cleaner” mean?

For this cleaner to work in your pool you will need a booster pump. Click here to see what a booster pump looks like if you are unsure. The booster pump takes a small amount of water from your main pump while they both run. The small amount of water that goes through the booster pump is pressurized to make the Polaris 280 more powerful without needing so much water. This means that the rest of the water that your main pump is moving is available for regular circulation and general motion throughout your pool. This keeps your pool cleaner and helps prevent algae.

If you do not have a booster pump over there at your pool equipment pad, you will need to use a Polaris 360 or suction side pool cleaner depending on how your pool is plumbed. This can get a little complicated and it is probably best to send me a quick message and a few pictures (one of your equipment pad and one of your previous pool cleaner) so that I can help you choose the correct pool cleaner replacement. Please use the contact page on this website.

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Preventing Stains On Pool Surfaces Due To Leaves

pool stain preventative

Many leaves and other debris cause stains on pool surfaces during the fall. Here’s how to prevent it!

Many tannins and minerals cause stains on pool surfaces. Two big examples are acorns and oaks leaves. I have seen a great looking pool look like the surface is ruined just one week later after a wind or rain storm. Fortunately, all is not lost!

The product that I am going to recommend is designed as a preventative but I have used it many times to remove newly added stains from storms. The product varies by brand but the agent you are looking for is  “sequestering”. In the most simple terms, this means that the staining properties from the debris that enters your pool are kept in suspension so they cannot precipitate out onto the pool surface. They will not stain your pool.

Preventing stains on pool surfaces due to leaves and other debris is important throughout the year but obviously more important in the fall and winter. Using a stain preventative will keep your pool surface looking better for a much longer period of time. Sometimes giving you years longer of a new looking pool surface. The other benefit of a sequestering agent is that it substantially slows down the formation of calcium on your pool tile. Using this product every 6 month at the least will help dramatically.

Product Addition

The addition of this product is simple and there are no restrictions for swimming directly after. The only chemicals that I would not add the same day as this product would be a pH adjustment (acid, soda ash, or baking soda) or the rare time you might be adding calcium to your pool.

Simply open the container and pour the liquid sequestering agent directly around the perimeter of your pool with the pool pump running. Let the pump run for at least two hours to make sure it is evenly distributed before the pump shuts off. You can brush the stains on your pool surface if you like but this is not necessary.

This product is not designed as a stain remover as noted above but may help to remove superficial stains. It is truly designed as a stain preventative. For a much better stain remover (but not preventative) click here to see my article on Stain Removal.


Most sequestering agents regardless of the brand have a dosage of one quart per 20,000 gallons of pool water. Please read and follow the dosage recommendations of the individual product you select. You should add this amount at least every six months. Fall and Spring. Most recommendation on the product label itself tell you to add it monthly. I am sure it would help a little more to add it this often but in my opinion not enough to justify the cost.

Brands Available

As mentioned above, there are many brands offering the same product. Here are a few for you to choose from that I have used before.

More Information

If you would like more information on this topic or other helpful things, please check out other posts here or subscribe with your email to receive each new post from me. I try to give you helpful information around the time that you may find it most useful. You can also pick up a copy of my book either in paperback or kindle format on Amazon here.

Thank you and good luck preventing stains on pool surfaces!


John Brace

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Variable Speed Pool Pump Comparison

Variable speed pool pump

A new Variable Speed pool pump is your biggest and best chance to save money on your pool operations.

Pool pumps have truly come a long way in the last few years. They are quieter, smarter, and much more efficient. There are also many laws that are now in place in many states that prevent you from installing a single speed pump when your old one fails or you are building a new pool.

So how much can you really save?

Truthfully, this depends on the pump that you are replacing and a few other factors. To keep things simple, if your old pump is within 25 years old it is safe to say that if you run the new variable speed pump at a high enough speed to equal the gallons per minute of the old pump (comparing apples to apples) you will save at least 50% on the pump part of your energy bill.

There may even be more savings involved if you were running the old pump for too many hours per day compared to what is needed.

The last way that you will save money is if your old single speed pump was too large for your specific pool. Remember that when single speed pumps were installed years ago, it was up to the installer on which speed (horsepower) to install. Many times two or three pump sizes could be chosen depending on desired effects. The problem with a pump that was too powerful is that you can only force a certain amount of water through a certain size pipe. So if the pump is trying to move more water than will go through the pipes, the rest of the energy used is lost. You end up with a motor that runs hot and doesn’t last. You also end up with other damaged pool equipment and plumbing due to the abnormally high pressure created.

With all of that said, you can save as much as 90% over the cost per month to run your single speed pump. If your old pump is more than 25 years old you will most definitely save closer to the 90% mark.


So what brand and what version do you pick?

More talking from me, sorry.

If your pool is just being built your pool installer will decide for you and you should probably let them because they know all of the variables involved with your new pool.

Again, to make things as simple as I can, if you have 1 1/2″ plumbing anywhere at your equipment pad, You should not go with a 3Hp variable speed pump. Each brand has an 1 1/2Hp variable speed pump available. If you do go with the larger pump, make sure you go into the settings and set the highest rpm to around 2000. Any more may damage plumbing over time. If you have 2″ plumbing throughout you should use the 3Hp variation. You may still not want to run the pump at the highest speeds possible (3450 rpms) because of other pieces of equipment like solar or heaters and such.

The entire idea of the variable speed pump is that you now have the flexibility to select the lowest possible speed and still have your pool circulate as desired. This will give you the most efficient situation and longest lasting equipment too.

Which brand you select depends on what timer or controller you have. If you have a simple mechanical timer like an Intermatic (yellow dial timer) you can select any brand you like. I like Pentair and Sta-Rite myself. If you have a digital controller you may want to use the same brand for your pump. This is because it will most likely work better with your old controller and if you ever have to replace the circuit board on that controller, the new one will have more functionality that was specifically designed for their brand variable speed pump.

The last choice you have is if you feel you need the “Safety Vacuum Release System” on your new pump. This adds a new layer of safety to your pump if there is ever a blockage of the water flow due to a possible entrapment of a person at the suction ports of your pool. At this point the pump will detect the blockage and shut down the pump. The only negative thing I have found with this feature is that the pumps don’t all turn back on the next day or turn off all equipment so it is possible to damage other equipment or cause algae due to inactivity unless the pump is properly installed.


Even with all of that said I may have still not answered your specific question about what to do. If you would like to ask me directly, feel free to use the contact form on this website. You can send me pictures and questions and I will try to help. You may also find some more helpful information in my book available on Amazon. Here is the link.

John Brace

Pentair Variable Speed 3 hp Pumps

Safety Vacuum Release Version 3 hp

Pentair Variable Speed 1 1/2 hp Pump

Sta-Rite Variable Speed 3 hp Pumps

Safety Vacuum Release Version 3 hp

Sta-Rite Variable Speed 1 1/2 hp Pump

Jandy Variable Speed 3 hp Pump

Jandy Variable Speed 1 1/2 hp – 2 hp Pumps

Hayward Variable Speed 3 hp Pumps

Safety Vacuum Release Version 3 hp

Hayward Variable Speed 1 hp – 2 hp Pumps

120V Version

Safety Vacuum Release Version 1 1/2 hp – 2 hp


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Preventing Green Algae and Maintaining a Clean, Clear, and Healthy Swimming Pool

Pool Maintenance

Preventing Green Algae and Maintaining a Clean, Clear, and Healthy Swimming Pool- Sunbelt Climate

Owning a swimming pool in California.

It’s summer here again in California, or at least it feels that way. If you own a swimming pool you may already be seeing the changes to the previously easy to maintain water. The first thing you might notice is a little haze or cloudiness in certain light. You might think to yourself, “I better test the pool, it looks like it may need chlorine”. You might be partially correct. It is also possible that just adding more chlorine will not stop an inevitable algae issue from starting. Here are a few things that I recommend to do now before the true summer starts and before any algae is visible to yield a longer and more trouble free swim season.

My name is John Brace, I live in California and have been servicing swimming pools for over 22 years. I have actually serviced or repaired over 850 swimming pools in that time, most on a weekly basis. In that time I have seen and taken care of thousands of algae blooms in the spring and throughout the summer. Each year I feel like I improved my efforts to quickly spot the formation of algae and deal with it in the most cost effective but productive way possible. One of the most effective tactics I have found is to add a preventative algaecide in the spring at the exact moment you notice a change in the pool water and the way it is behaving. This can be an obvious change or one that is more subtle. If you notice any cloudiness to your water you should immediately proceed to my recommendations below. If you have simply noticed that through your weekly water tests the chlorine is not lasting as long and your gut says it’s time, don’t worry, the steps listed below will not hurt your pool in any way. They can only help and even if you were wrong about subtle changes you will most likely cause yourself an easier to maintain pool throughout the summer.

Here are my recommendations for a less expensive and more productive swim season for a sun belt area swimming pool.

Step 1

Clean your pool filter

There are three types of swimming pool filters for in-ground swimming pools. Each has advantages and disadvantages. All need to be cleaned before the swim season for best results.

Cartridge filters if larger that 300 Sq. Ft. should be cleaned every 3-6 months or every time the filter pressure rises 8-10 lbs. above the clean starting pressure. If you have an older cartridge filter that is smaller than 300 Sq. Ft. you may need to clean your elements as often as monthly. Start by thoroughly cleaning the elements in the spring to establish the clean starting pressure. That is the pressure on the gauge that is on top of the filter. If your filter elements are several years old and you remember a lower pressure after cleaning them in the past you might consider degreasing or replacing the elements. There is only so much that old filter elements can due compared to new ones. I have written more information about this topic in my book Pool Maintenance Made Easy available on Amazon. You can soak your elements in a degreasing agent to remove grime, oil, and organic debris that clog the small pores of the filters and cause a higher pressure and lower water flow. Here is my recommended degreaser by SeaKlear available on Amazon. Soaking the elements could postpone the replacement of your elements by months or years. Keeping the lowest possible filter pressure is ideal because you will move more water through the filters each hour you run your filter pump. This will reduce the amount of hours you need to run the filter pump per day to maintain a clean, clear, and healthy swimming pool. Ideally you should soak your filter elements at least every spring. A cartridge filter can remove particles down to about 9-11 microns in size. Cartridge filters are by far the most popular filter media in California. I have heard that is not true in some other states.

Diatomaceous Earth (D.E.) filters should be cleaned every time the filter pressure rises 8-10 lbs. above the clean starting pressure. Everything mentioned above regarding cartridge filters is applicable here. The major difference is the fact that D.E. filters are easily damaged due to high pressure so it is even more imperative that you clean and degrease them often to keep the water flowing and the pressure down. Make sure you add Diatomaceous Earth (available on Amazon) in the amount listed on the outside of your filter after taking the filter apart and cleaning it. I do not recommend backwashing the filter because it does not accomplish much and it is impossible to tell how much D.E. was lost and how much you need to add as a replenishment. Clean your D.E. filter in an area that kids will not be running through afterwards because the dry form of this product should not enter your lungs. The best place to clean one would be near a drain that you can wash everything into. D.E. filters do filter a slightly smaller particle from the water than a cartridge filter but they do require more maintenance by way of more often filter cleaning. A D.E. filter can remove particles down to about 3-5 microns in size.

Sand Filters are simply backwashed every time the filter pressure rises 8-10 lbs. above the clean starting pressure. After a few years the sand becomes compacted and the filter stops working the way it was intended. To prevent this from happening you should use a cleaning agent during backwash every few months. Here is the one I recommend available on Amazon. Sand filters are a lot less work than the two other varieties but have a big disadvantage as far as how small of a particle they will remove. Sand filters will only remove particles down to about 30 microns.

A human hair is about 60 microns thick and we can see down to about 30 microns. What all that means is that if all of those smaller particles are not removed from the water, they can become food for algae. For all filters, when the filter pressure goes up the water flow slows down and you will experience more algae as a result.

Step 2

Balance the water

This can be a lengthy topic because balancing the water can be easy or difficult depending on prior maintenance and the current water balance and condition. I will address a few of the most important things you should test for here. A more detailed and comprehensive account of water maintenance can be read in my book Pool Maintenance Made Easy available on Amazon.

pH and Alkalinity

The pH and Alkalinity of the water are very important. The pH is a measure of how basic or acidic the water is. This level being off effects more than one thing.

If the pH is too high the water is scale forming meaning you will start to develop calcium on your walls and tile. It is also irritating to your skin and eyes. Lastly, if the pH is too high the chlorine is less effective but lasts longer in the water.

If the pH is too low the water is acidic. That means the water will slowly corrode the walls, plumbing, and pool equipment. It is also irritating to your eyes and skin. Lastly, if the pH is too low the chlorine is more powerful but does not last very long in the water.

Maintain a pH between 7.4 and 7.6

To Lower pH you add small amounts of acid. To raise the pH you add baking soda or soda ash. Charts depicting how much to add after you test your current levels are in both your Taylor test kit (talked about later) or in my book Pool Maintenance Made Easy.

Alkalinity is the buffer for the pH. If the alkalinity is too high the pH will not move. It is locked in place. That might be ok if the pH was at a perfect level but this is rarely true. Most times the alkalinity is high the pH is high as well.

If the alkalinity is too low the pH will bounce around with everything that happens to your pool. This means if you add a product to the pool that does not have a neutral pH it will quickly change your pools pH. The same is true if you swim in the pool or for that matter the wind blows and leafs enter the pool.

Maintain an alkalinity between 80ppm-100ppm for a plaster pool and 100ppm-120ppm for a vinyl or fiberglass pool.

To Lower alkalinity you add small amounts of acid. To raise the alkalinity you add baking soda. Charts depicting how much to add after you test your current levels are in both your Taylor test kit (talked about later) or in my book Pool Maintenance Made Easy.

Free Chlorine

Chlorine is measured in two ways, free and total chlorine. Free chlorine is what you want and need in your swimming pool at all times. Most pools need a free chlorine between 1-3ppm and as much as 5ppm. Free chlorine is chlorine that is waiting in your water and has not been used in any way. It is not combined with oils, algae, or other organic material. Combined chlorine is chlorine that was free chlorine and has now combined itself with material in the water. Combined chlorine needs to be removed from the water by way of shocking the pool. Combined chlorine is also called chloramines. This is the type of chlorine you might smell at a public pool with too high of a bather load. It is also responsible for eye and skin irritation. Free chlorine actually does not have an odor when at normal levels in a swimming pool, only combined chlorine does. Total chlorine is a measure of both free and combined chlorine.

Maintain your free chlorine levels between 1-3ppm all year long. When trying to kill algae you will need a much higher level accomplished by shocking the pool. Buy a good test kit that tests free chlorine. Taylor makes a great one that is very easy to learn. It also comes with a great book that has dosage charts inside so you can easily figure out how much chlorine and other chemicals to add.

Calcium Hardness

Calcium Hardness is a measure of how hard or soft the water in your pool is. I won’t get into too many specifics here because it is not too important once it is balanced. This level does not change quickly unless the water is drained from the pool and replaced with tap water. If your pool has a leak you will need to check the hardness levels more often, otherwise you should only need to check this level twice per year. If your calcium level is too low, below 150ppm, the water will slowly pull the calcium it needs from the pool plaster. If the calcium is too high the water can leach out calcium onto the tile and pool walls. This is especially true if the pH is high.

Maintain calcium Hardness between 200-400ppm. (ideal range) or at least 150-500ppm. (acceptable range).


Conditioner is also called stabilizer or Cyanuric Acid. Conditioner might just be the most helpful product you can add to your pool if the level is low. This is because conditioner protects the chlorine from sunlight, sort of like sunscreen for your pool. A fun fact is that if you had just tap water in your pool (zero conditioner) you would loose all of the available chlorine in just 8 hours of sunlight! Make sure you test the conditioner level before adding for this reason only though, any presence of algae might also remove chlorine at the same rate. If you are low on this product it will easily pay for itself in a very short period of time due to you not having to add as much chlorine.

The conditioner ideal level is up for debate. If you want to take a veteran pool guys advice (like me), the ideal level is right at 80ppm. If you ask some pool stores they might tell you between 30-50ppm. The reason is not as simple as the store wanting to make more money on chlorine and me (the pool guy) wanting to save money. It goes slightly deeper. Public pools like apartment complexes and such have such a high bather load (swimmers) that they want to add new chlorine every day and throughout the day for health reasons. That is because during the process of adding the chlorine you are also “oxidizing” the organic material out of the water. This means they actually maintain a cleaner and healthier pool even with the high bather load. If the conditioner level was too high, they would not be oxidizing enough and might develop bacteria or viruses in the water. For private backyard swimming pools we don’t have to deal with all of that. The bather loads are a tiny fraction compared to a public pool and the chlorine that is in the water easily kills everything bad in the water. With that said, you really don’t want the conditioner levels to be over about 100ppm. Anything higher than that and the chlorine will not dissipate at a fast enough rate to be healthy. The only way to lower a conditioner level is to drain some of the water out of your pool and add tap water.

Step 3

Run the pool equipment the correct number of hours per day

We are supposed to run all of your pool gallonage through the pool filter at least once per day. Every time your filter runs it is removing small particles from the water that entered your pool. These small particles accumulate over time and if not removed will cause algae because essentially they are the food for algae. Have you ever turned a pool light on at night and noticed small particles floating around in front of the light? Those particles cannot be seen during the daytime in most cases. Nonetheless, they make your job as the maintenance person easier or harder depending on their number.

Calculate your pool gallonage with this simple formula: Length X Width X Average Depth X 7.5 = Approximate gallonage of an in-ground free form pool. Example: 32” long X 15” wide X 5.75” average depth (8” deep end and 3.5” shallow end) X 7.5 = 20,700 gallons.

Calculate the gallons per minute moved by using a Flow Meter. My favorite flow meter is by a company named Blue White. A flow meter measures the number of gallons that flow through the plumbing at any one time as measured by GPM (Gallons Per Minute). To install this flow meter you will drill a small hole in the plumbing after the pool filter and insert the flow meter. The meter comes with a rubber seal and two stainless steel clamps to tighten it down. The meter is most accurate when installed with at least 8” of straight pipe before the meter and 4” after. This is so the water straightens out inside the pipe before it hits the meter. Here is a link to an installation video from Blue White.

2” plumbing Blue White Brand Flow Meter (Horizontal Pipe)

1 1/2” plumbing Blue White Brand Flow Meter (Horizontal Pipe)

2” plumbing Blue White Brand Flow Meter (Vertical Pipe – Water Direction Down)

1 1/2” plumbing Blue White Brand Flow Meter (Vertical Pipe – Water Direction Down)

2” plumbing Blue White Brand Flow Meter (Vertical Pipe – Water Direction Up)

1 1/2” plumbing Blue White Brand Flow Meter (Vertical Pipe – Water Direction Up)

Once you have a flow meter on your pool plumbing everything changes. The reason why I love them and use them on all of the pools that I maintain is because without one you are simply guessing. You don’t really know how many gallons are moving each hour so how can you calculate how many hours to run your equipment per day?

Now lets say for example that your new flow meter is telling you that you are moving about 60 gallons per minute. Multiply 60 gpm X 60 minutes in an hour to get 3,600 gallons per hour. Now divide that number into the example above of a 20,700 gallon pool to see that you will need to run your pool filter pump 5.75 hours each day for one turnover. If you were running it more than that you just saved yourself money and if you were running it too little you just saved yourself headaches.

Running your pool the correct number of hours per day will save you money on electricity and will ensure you are doing what you need to prevent algae, viruses, and bacteria in your swimming pool combined with proper chemical balance.

Step 4

Add a preventative algaecide

Even if you don’t see algae on your walls or in the water it is a good idea to add preventative algaecide now to kill anything that might be starting before it has a chance to steal away part of your swim season.

If you can’t see any algae make sure you brush the walls and look for any green color by the brush. Sometimes you will see it then before it is noticeable otherwise. After brushing the pool if you still did not see algae and you have a normal level of chlorine go ahead and add a preventative dose of algaecide 60.

If you do see algae either while brushing or before you will need to shock the pool at a rate of one pound per 10,000 gallons for visible algae before adding the algaecide. If the pool has more than a little algae you may need to double that dose. Go to a reputable pool store if you are unsure how much chlorine to add. After the chlorine shock treatment and a thorough brushing of the pool walls go ahead and add a full dose of algaecide 60 (usually one quart per 20,000 gallons). Run the pool filter while adding chemicals and for at least 8 hours after the addition of chemicals.

You can use this algaecide as much as needed throughout the year because it is not a metal based algaecide so it cannot stain your pool or cause other undesired effects. Cheap algaecides available at most non pool stores are not nearly as good and sometimes will do nothing at all to kill or prevent algae. I think on this one you get what you pay for.


These steps can be done at any time of year, the biggest benefit and lowest cost would be if you implemented these steps at the beginning of the swimming season or just before it. If you are reading this during the season and are currently experiencing algae, read my book Pool Maintenance Made Easy or contact me directly. You need a more comprehensive approach that you can learn by reading my book completely or you can give me specifics about what you have already done and the current condition of your pool. I would be glad to help.

All the links are clickable and I do receive a small commission for items purchased on Amazon through the Amazon Affiliate program. This does not increase the amount you pay for the items. I have only recommended products that I myself have used and liked.

John Brace

Author of Pool Maintenance Made Easy (Second Edition)

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Pool Maintenance Made Easy Is Now Available


Pool Maintenance Made Easy is now available in it’s second edition on Amazon, Barnes and Noble, and the iBook Store! I am very proud of the new version which was completed in  March 2014. This is a step by step guide to easy swimming pool maintenance. Save hundreds per year avoiding the purchase of unneeded chemicals. Maintain a clean, clear, and healthy swimming pool. Feel good about knowing exactly what to do depending on the season to maintain your pool.

Here are the links to help you find a copy for yourself;

Amazon in Paperback

Amazon in Kindle

Barnes & Noble in Nook